Lake Como, 2006

WHY GO NOW
Lake Como has had its share of the spotlight recently. A phalanx of television crews drawn to rumors of celebrity weddings will do that. And perhaps you've heard that George Clooney also lives there.

But Lake Como — 30 miles long and 1,350 feet at its deepest — is more than the sum of its celebrity interlopers, reclusive Swiss billionaires and their bashful Italian mistresses. It is also home to some of the most impressive scenery and food in Italy. And thanks to strict laws against development and genetically modified tomatoes, there's little fear of that changing anytime soon.

Except in the town of Como itself. The best thing to do after arriving is to leave. The farther you get from the drop-off point of tour buses, the more charming the scenery becomes. Head up the west side of the lake to the villages of Cernobbio, Laglio and Tremezzo, or venture up the opposite shore to the even quieter towns of Faggetto, Lario and Lezzeno. And if you can't decide, jump on a ferry and go straight up the middle, hopscotching among the towns on both sides.

For some, the promise of Mr. Clooney steering a boat, shirtless, while Mario Testino snaps pictures of him, will be reason enough to jump on a seaplane to Como. For others, it's the villas and gardens in full bloom, blue waters warmed by months of sunshine and menus bursting with perfectly ripened tomatoes.

WHERE TO STAY
If you're not a duchess but want to sleep like one, the Villa d'Este (Via Regina, 40, Cernobbio; 39-031-3481; www.villadeste.it) is the only game in town. The villa, which was acquired by Caroline of Brunswick in 1815, was converted to a hotel in 1873 and now rests inside a 25-acre park along the lake, with several swimming pools, tennis courts and, of course, a helipad. The Villa d'Este has 154 bedrooms, which start at 315 euros (about $406 at $1.29 to the euro) in the low season and 470 euros ($606) in the high season, which is late April to mid-October. Two smaller villas on the property — Villa Cima and Villa Malakoff — were recently renovated and can accommodate families of 9 and 8. But at 29,000 to 35,000 euros a week, make that a family of very wealthy people.

Despite the crowds, the town of Como is a convenient place to stay. The Albergo Terminus (Lungolario Trieste, 14, Como; 39-031-329-111; www.hotelterminus-como.it) is a classically styled hotel in the heart of Como, which overlooks the lake from the southernmost tip. The elegant lobby — marble floors, plush couches and giant bowls of apples — gives way to bright, comfortable rooms with great views and modern bathrooms. From 205 euros.

For those who are neither celebrities nor royalty, few hotels can out-charm the Piccolo Hotel Orso Bruno (Via Regina Vecchia, 45, Carate Urio; 39-031-400-136; www.hotelorsobruno.com), which charges just 90 euros a night. Set near Laglio in one of the quietest corners of Lake Como, some of the hotel's cheery rooms face the lake.

WHERE TO EAT
There isn't a guidebook or concierge in the area that fails to herald Il Gatto Nero (Via Montesanto, 69, Cernobbio; 39-031-512-042; closed Mondays). But don't let that dissuade you. Tucked into the hills above town, Il Gatto Nero is the real thing — a warm, wood-paneled restaurant with eclectic wall hangings, overstuffed cushions and soft yellow lighting that makes everyone look better. After feasting on tagliolini with asparagus (12 euros) and grilled lamb chops (14 euros), dinner ends with an espresso and an enormous jar of homemade cookies. If you ask, the waiter will show you photographs of his favorite patrons — Matt Damon with George Clooney, Michael Douglas with George Clooney and, of course, the waiter himself with George Clooney.

Brand new to the area is L'Altra Riva (Via Regina Vecchia, 26, Carate Urio; 39-031-400-260), a modern Italian restaurant with a lakefront patio furnished with billowy white sheets, candlelit tables and plush white couches. It feels like a glossy magazine spread, but after a meal of baby artichokes with grana salad (7.50 euros) and the spaghetti nero di sepia (10 euros), you won't mind it in the least.

To escape the paparazzi, take the winding road in Tremezzo that leads to La Fagurida (Via Rogaro, 17; 39-344-40676; closed Mondays). As you pass the grazing cows and chickens, it feels as if you've wandered into someone's farmhouse. Actually, you have — the proprietors live there. Have a seat on the balcony, take in the view of the lake and snowcapped Alps, and order the specialties of the house: homemade salami and antipasti (12 euros), lake fish seasoned with butter and sage (14 euros), polenta with cheese, garlic and butter (8 euros) and roasted rabbit (14 euros).

Across the lake is the tiny, easily overlooked town of Molina. Tucked into one of the main squares is Trattoria Pippi (Piazza della Chiesa, 16; 39-031-378-500; closed Wednesdays). It is one of those utterly authentic places that is so delicious, so undiscovered, a travel writer may be tempted to keep it to herself. There is no menu, the staff does not speak English, and the kitchen will only serve you that day's special. But you won't find yourself complaining as platter after platter of farfalle al pesto, breaded veal and sautéed vegetables arrive, followed by a bill of just 27 euros for two (cash only).

WHAT TO DO DURING THE DAY
Como is famous for water and hills. The best way to appreciate the former is to jump on a ferry, Gestione Navigazione Laghi (39-031-579-211, www.navigazionelaghi.it), from Como, Bellaggio, Varenna or any other larger town (each town has one dock in the center, and fares run from 4 to 20 euros). The crowds are manageable and the views are jaw-dropping. Private lake tours are also available, starting at about 160 euros an hour; among the most reputable is Tasell (Piazza Cavour, Como; 39-031-304-084; www.tasell.com).

To head for the hills, take the Brunate Funicular Railway from Como (39-031-303-608; 4.10 euros) up, up, up to the small village of Brunate, about 2,200 feet above the lake. The surrounding trails offer picture-perfect views of the Alps.

The Como area is to silk what Venice is to glass. Get a crash course in the subject at the Museo Didattico della Seta, or Silk Museum (Via Castelnuovo, 1, Como; 39-031-303-180; www.museosetacomo.com; 8 euros). Who knew that Como supplies 75 percent of Europe's silk?

WHAT TO DO AT NIGHT
Despite the celebrity glow, Como doesn't come alive at night. On the contrary, it's the kind of place that favors long dinners, evening strolls and a good night's sleep. The best excuse to stay out is the local gelateria, Caffè Bar Sport (Piazza della Chiesa, 7, Bellagio; 39-031-950-161). Across the water, the prettiest places to sip an after-dinner limoncello or grappa are Harry's Bar (Piazza Risorgimento, 1, Cernobbio; closed Tuesdays) and the terrace at Villa d'Este, both of which offer equally stunning views of the lake and Como's well-dressed crowd.

Those looking to kick up their heels should not despair. Like the Las Vegas casino of the same name, Bellagio is the liveliest of the Como towns. Walk along the Lungo Lario Manzoni on the water's edge. You'll pass cafes that overflow with the eating, drinking and dancing crowd outside Hotel du Lac (Piazza Mazzini, 32; 39-031-950-320; www.bellagiohoteldulac.com). Or listen to live jazz at the lakeside Firenze Bar at the Hotel Firenze (Piazza Mazzini 46; 39-031-950-342; www.bellagio.co.nz/florence).

WHERE TO SHOP
The best place to buy silk is La Tessitura (Viale Roosevelt, 2/A, Como; 39-031-321-666, www.mantero.com), the sleek concept store of Mantero, the famed silk manufacturer. If you haven't heard of Mantero, you probably know its clients - Yves Saint Laurent, Louis Vuitton and Chanel, for starters. The store carries gorgeous clothing and soft furnishings - ties, dresses, swimsuits, pillows, blankets - that are made from excess silk. On a smaller scale, Frey (Via Garibaldi, 10, Como; 39-031-267-012) has a good selection of silk accessories, including ties and scarves, at its outlet in the old town.

After silk, the shopping possibilities drop off considerably. The narrow streets of Como's old quarter are home to big name brands (Emporio Armani and Bang & Olufsen), but more interesting are the smaller local shops. One favorite is 2Link Look & Touch (Via Olginati, 8; 39-031-269-486), which carries a selection of funky T-shirts and dresses made by young Italian designers.

YOUR FIRST TRIP OR YOUR 10TH
The 300-year-old Villa Carlotta (Via Regina, 2, Tremezzo; 39-0344-40405; www.villacarlotta.it; admission 7.50 euros) is as impressive as ever. The museum and botanical garden is on 14 acres, with 500 types of plants, flowers and tropical trees. Just up the road is the Villa del Balbianello (Dosso di Lavedo; 39-0344-56110; 5 euros; closed Mondays and Wednesdays), arguably among the most beautiful estates in the country - terraced gardens, miniature palazzos, magnificent stone staircases and manicured lawns that slope to the lake. It was also where George Lucas filmed part of "Star Wars: Episode 2 - Attack of the Clones."

WHERE TO STAY WIRED
There are several Internet cafes in the town of Como, but their hours are subject to the managers' whims. One of the most reliable is Telefonopiù (Via Bianchi Giovini, 10; 39-031-309-253), just off the Piazza Cavour.

HOW TO GET THERE
Lake Como is about 30 miles north of Milan. Delta, Alitalia and Continental fly nonstop from New York to Milan's Malpensa Airport. (A recent Web search turned up round-trip tickets for about $800.) From Milan, the best way to get to the lake is to drive. Hertz, Avis and other major car rental companies are at the airport, and start at about $60 a day. Alternatively, take the Ferrovia Nord Milano train (www.ferrovienord.it). Trains leave for Como every hour from the airport, and the trip takes about 90 minutes. Tickets start at 8.05 euros.

HOW TO GET AROUND
You need a car to explore most of the region. Taxis are also available, but they are costly (about 10 euros to get from one town to the next). But if you just want to sightsee, hop on a ferry. The Gestione Navigazione Laghi ferry links the major villages of Lake Como.

Extract from Travel Intelligence Hotel Review

"Como is often by-passed in favour of the more traditional and prettier little villages that cluster around the two arms of Lake Como. But, being the largest town on the lake, it does have a number of features to recommend it: a cathedral; a Norman church; a busy weekday market and a cable car that carries you up to the stunning village of Brunate on the hill behind Como.

The Albergo Terminus is the best hotel of the bunch. Positioned on the lake and just a stone's throw from the Cathedral, it can be recognised by its pretty garden terrace and manicured lawn."